Saint Augustine

Gray day but enjoyed viewing some more marshes and woods . All sorts of birds in big flocks. We saw many hawks and osprey as well as a bald eagle! Raining but we saw a fabulous rainbow as the day cleared a bit. Picked up a nice push from the tide and made almost 70 miles into St Augustine. Many miles of straight canal sailing are interspersed with a few sounds and inlets presenting some navigational challenges. Often we would follow a few sets of sea buoys when crossing sounds. When using the sea buoys we are most often leaving the harbor so the green marks are on the right but when we would reenter a river or landcut, the red markers needed to be on the right. Sometimes there are nuns and cans, sometimes there are daymarks. Sometimes the daymarks on stakes mark private channels. The ICW marks always have yellow reflective triangles and squares on them and they do clarify things but I think I need the large print edition. As we were entering St Augustine the charts said that nuns 58,58A, 58C, 58D and 58E would mark the channel entry. (I don't know why no B it just didn't show up on the chart) We saw 58 and 58 A , then we saw 60 . No problem things change. When we saw a nun marked 0 it was hard to take seriously. 0? Not on the chart so we started to cut it and watched the depth sounder go from 30 feet to 6 in short order . We honored the marker to get back into deep water. Passed under the Bridge of Lions and into St Augustine. This once beautiful bridge is under construction until 2010. It is covered with elaborate scaffolding and tugs ,barges and workers. I hope it turns out to be as impressive as it was. We are happy to be here and will go out to celebrate our anniversary. 32 years! If we can manage this live aboard stuff I think the marriage just might last!

FLORIDA

Dropped the hook just over the Florida border about 3 miles past Fernandina Beach. Lots of powering through these waters. Tom was listening to the radio when someone came on saying " I am the southbound trawler on your stern. I 'd like to pass you to your port side. " The sailboat he wanted to pass replied that "in these waters we are all trawlers . Some of us just have sticks. " The way has been so narrow and winding, with so much shoaling that we haven't had the sail up in days . Fernandina Beach is a great place ashore, fun and friendly. But as you first sail over the border all that comes into view are industrial works and barges. It is not what comes to mind when we think Florida. The tides here are still pretty big and we nearly ran aground following a tug and barge down the channel at low tide. I blithely thought that if he could go there so could we. I guess a tug has enough power to make his own channel! As night began to fall we were in the Amelia river. This was a pretty anchorage with good holding but very narrow. We were too close to shore to put out enough anchor line. When the tide and wind came up before we went to bed, Tom had to put out a lot more scope. Then he needed to reel all that line in at about 3 AM so we wouldn't end up on the shore at low tide. We opted to leave that anchorage early before we had to go through the drill again!

Fort Fredrica was our last stop in Georgia. We were both impressed with the marshes here. The development is not overwhelming and the marshes feel wild. The waterfowl are abundant. In the Herb river we saw several wood storks as well as ibises and herons of all sorts. We especially liked the fact the one of the rivers was named Herb River and we took the opportunity to toast the Willis clan. Tom greatly enjoyed my singing as we passed the Moon River of Andy Williams fame. I am very surprised he hasn't asked me for a repeat performance. The intracostal continues to meander through rivers and creeks, man made canals and big sounds with ocean inlets. Quite impressive. On the larger waters we often saw shrimp boats. I remember being quite enamored by these since they will often sell shrimp at wonderfully low prices. However, when they have lines out, they are working and they are serious about work. If your mast was in the way of their arms I am not too sure the arms would come up! They have very limited maneuverability with their nets are out and we gave them a wide berth. Georgia also has remarkable tides. They generally run about 9 feet and since it was a moon tide they were even higher. these tides give a great boost and with them we travel at almost 8 knots. the reverse for reasons which seem a mystery(to me) but probably have to do with what inlet is closest. When running against them we were lucky to see anything more than 4 knots. We looked and looked for wild horses on Cumberland island but I think that you really need a hike to see them and as much as we liked Georgia we are still pushing to get south.

Fog

Monday morning found us at anchor in the Wahoo River, Georgia. We awakened with 7 or eight other boats to a cool but clear morning. NOAA predicted a southerly wind and inland fog until 9am. We got off around 8, not first, but not last, and proceeded out the river to the sound. Seems like it must have been slack tide, because we made the first few marks with no problems. Rounding the seaward mark, and heading back in the tide must have changed, because there was the thickest fog this side of Kennebunkport! Susan plotted each upcoming marker, now about a quarter mile distant, and we slowly advanced. Moving on the assumption that the fog would be over at 9AM as predicted, we followed the Magenta line into rivers, creeks, and canals at a snail's pace. At each mark we would stumble upon other cruisers in a similar situation. Eventually we fell in with one brave soul who must have had major electronics, and obtained a tail. With the three of us on the radio the whole time, we became friendly and chatty. Even three days later, we are still talking about this when we meet. The fog lifted once and we three found we were six. Then it closed in again. Passing through another sound to a river, the wind started to blow the fog away, and we six became eight. At this point we were passed by a number of patient power vessels, and some not so patient. The banter on the radio was interesting. By the end of the day, we had lost too much time to make Jekyll Island, so we anchored next to Fort Frederica, the original settlement of Georgia's first colonists, which were Irish prisoners!

Tom's Creek to Beaufort SC

In SC they call it BEW - fort as opposed to BO - fort in NC. A cold front has been blowing all day high winds and a winding path. We probably travel 10 miles over the ground to get 2 or 3 as the crow flies. The tides are huge here - 7 or 8 feet and today on the full moon they expect as much as a 10 foot tide! Definitely need to watch the channel markers. On the charts the Intracostal Waterway is marked in a purple color Perhaps the chart makers work with crayola as it is called the magenta line. When there are shoals or big tides the cruising guides admonish us to "stay exactly on the magenta line as charted" and we are trying to . Pretty through these marshes and many shore birds wading along exposed oyster beds. Dolphins are playing almost everywhere!

Thanksgiving in the Marsh

Left Charleston with high winds, cool temps and grey skies. Weather forcast was for rain and cold. We would be reluctant to leave charleston no matter the weather but this was not inviting. By early afternoon the sun was out and it was getting warmer. We anchored in tom's Point creek to cook Thanksgiving dinner. Silver candlesticks and plastic wineglasses but so many things to be thankful for. This marsh was again on a creek that was about 70 feet wide and 20 feet deep. The rivers are not all the big! Nice well protected anchorage.

Charleston

Easy sail over to Charleston after a picturesque morning. The barrier islands and palmettos give way to a busy harbor. It is amazing to see Fort Sumter at the entrance to the harbor . Great city and we are having fun in between provisioning and changing oil and filters etc. Weather is just spectacular! It is 78 and beautifully sunny! We will roast a little turkey tomorrow and some cranberry something just to be in the festive spirit. One thing we are so thankful for is that new oven. Doesn't feel like Thanksgiving without family and friends and we miss everyone. Our internet connection is weak and can't seem to manage pictures but we'll add a few later. We will toast you tomorrow!