Nassau to Staniel

Wild winds seemed to be the order of the day and we saw better than 20 knots for 3 days in Chub.  Tom had a chance to chat with our friend Frank Cassidy and our son Brendan,  engineers both, about our  engine problems .  What a great bonus it was to bounce ideas and concerns around .  I hope they know how much we appreciate their time and advice.  We ruled out  one thing after another but nothing definate ruled in! Nassau is a city and has many goods and services lots of tourist  pleasers and a lot of bad stuff that seems everywhere.  The working waterfront is a bit depressed but there is a lot to explore. 

 We were a bit worried about setting off for Nassau without being sure of the engine but there was one day with predicted winds of less than 20knots and it looked like we could put those winds behind us.  So deep breath for me and off we went.  We sailed until we got to the harbor and hoped that the protection in there would keep us from engine trouble. the engine really only acts up in big seas.   Great sail, big seas but broad reach to run the whole way.  Then, we sat in Nassau with 25-30 knot winds for a few days. Wild weather!  More discussion with our consultants.  It is difficult to solve a problem when you can't seem to figure out what the problem is.  Finally, Tom put in a small fuel pump between the Racor and the engine. Marine Diesel the Yanmar mechanics in Nassau have done this before.   It is switched so it runs when the engine is running.   Left Nassau with another short window and  headed for the Exumas. Our course was just about 25 degrees off the wind . We think that we should be able to sail that but we need to tack too much to make any time.  We  decided to motorsail to make either Normans or Shroud and that would be a good test  for our engine solution.  It worked! As we sailed closer and closer to the protection of the islands everything got better.  The water here even on a cloudy day is spectacular. We are thrilled to be here .  We are meeting pat and Michelle , Brendan and Lexi here and there is no better Christmas gift.  We are anchored off the beach with the swimming pigs and can't wait to show everyone the places we so enjoyed.   

Banks and Chub

A front was predicted about midday on the day after we reached Bimini so Tom and I elected to spend a day exploring.  Bimini was quiet .  There is more than enough dock space for twenty times the number of boats we saw there.  The new development, Bimini Bay, toward the end of the island,  has increased the marina space even more.  Bimini Bay is a pretty spot, nice houses fancy pools etc.  but very enclosed and doesn't seem to be a part of the town at all.  Another cold front " reinforcing " was predicted but Tom and I hoped that we could manage a bumpy night on the banks and then get into Chub before the front came through and really whipped things up.So we headed out in the morning.    It was a breezy but pleasant close reach across the banks .  Bumpy as the wind kept picking up and coming around to directly on the nose. We were powering along happily with the clear clear water of the Banks below.  We saw dolphins and many fishing boats.  The fishing boats have one large boat about 60 feet or so towing a string (3or4) of 20 foot whaler types.  These guys go lobstering all day then bring the catch back to the large boat for the night.  They stay out about a month.  As the end of the day came ,  the engine started to cough.  there were  fewer than 20 hours on the filters so it seemed odd but the boat was behaving as if they were clogged .   As Tom went below to change filters, One of the smaller fishing boats came over to us.  They said they'd been out about 3 1/2 weeks and would be happy to trade lobsters for beer.  They were so happy when we passed a six pack over.  They gave us 6 lobsters and 2 huge stone crab claws.  If I ever came in contact with the crab that owned these claws I'd be terrified.   We got a big kick out of the fishermen and the lobsters were GREAT.  However the engine problem was on both our minds as we tried to sleep and the wind came up more and more.  It was a bouncy night.  People tell me of calm nights on the banks but I haven't experienced one yet.  But it is so beautiful to be out there.  Stars fill the sky above,  the moon was big and shone through the clouds reflecting on the water below.  Still it was a bumpy night and I was ready to leave at 5.  We pushed off early.  The engine problems of the day before meant we had a bit more of a trip than planned and the front was definitely moving through.  We knew we couldn't stay put so we went along.  Rounding the mark from the shallow banks into the deep ( about a mile deep) waters of the Northwest Providence Channel was intimidating.  We were powering as wind was on the bow but we were  almost tacking in order to stop pounding into the waves.  The seas were huge and building.  Our hopes that they might lay down at  the tide change weren't realized .  Then the engine died .  Not part of the plan.  Changed course, rolled out jib and sailed into some big seas.  Tom worked on engine with   a pretty severe heel going on but the boat took the seas  pretty well  as long as we didn't try to head right into them.  Got things going again and headed toward anchorage.  Engine quit again.  Clearly not clogged filters now .  Tacked again.  It was so sad to turn away from the anchorage but there are a few rocks that we needed to avoid and the boat wouldn't head up enough under sail alone to make the channel. After a few tacks in 35knot winds and 10 foot seas, we sailed into a little shelter by Chub point threw out the hook. Tom worked on the engine.  Not too many resources at the marina there, it is really a resort, but once we got the engine running we headed in.   That night there were gusts to  in 35 knot range so we were glad to be there.  In the midst of this Tom saw a pod of whales.  I only saw a tail disappear below the surface.   In all that turmoil it was still majestic 

Go

Left Cape Florida at dawn, powered in very light winds.  Looked back at the lighthouse and distant buildings just once.  From then we were looking ahead.  After a couple of  hours, we were discussing the fact that there was quite a bit more wind than predicted.  It was E SE and about 15 knots.  We looked at each other and said "Hey we can sail. " We hadn't actually been able to sail on the ICW for a long time.  Since predictions were for 5 -10 we had planned to power in order to get across before dark.  What a joy.  Sails up,  making almost 7knots motor sailing, we killed the engine and had a blissful sail for the last 4 hours of our run to Bimini.  What a  beautiful day; warm, blue skies. great breeze- never more than 15 but not much less either. The blue of the Gulf stream is so intense, it just added to the scenery.  Flying fish were keeping up company.  Not quite as good as dolphins but fun to watch.  Got to Bimini, legendary fishing town and haunt of Hemingway, about 3PM and powered up to enter a quiet, harbor.  This entry  is interesting.  There is a sandbar with waves breaking parallel to the beach.  You cut between this and the beach just quite close to shore after you line up the range marking the harbor entrance.  I didn't even think it looked like an entrance from a ways away.    But at least 7 to 9 feet of water are there as long as you watch yourself.  My impulse is not to go too close to the beach but with that sandbar the beach was on both sides!  Hundreds if not thousands of much bigger boats enter this harbor all the time so no worries.   Once inside the channel is well marked.  We called a couple of marinas on the radio but no answer.  Finally Tom saw a boat docking, yelled to the dock hand "Have room for one more?" and we tied up.  Clearing customs was quick , organized and easy.  We put the yellow Q flag up once we could see land and were happy to switch it for the Bahamian marine flag.   We had time to walk up the hill have a celebratory rum drink and watch sunset.  It doesn't get much better than this.  

Stiltsville

Waiting  has never been one of my best jobs.  Tom is more patient than I and we were both antsy.  Unstowed dinghy and went exploring.  The water here is clear and inviting.  I have often wanted to see the houses in Stiltsville up close.  They are only about 3 miles from Key Biscayne. Years ago we were headed there in the cat boat when we bumped the bottom.  When you hit ground in a cat boat the water is really shallow! It is odd to see them rise up from Biscayne Bay miles from shore and close to the ocean.  Even in  the dinghy we almost ran out of water.  Dolphins were fishing and we watched a leopard ray wing over the bottom.  There were many Man of War jelly fish. A few were tiny but many were close to 7 inches or so. Their sails are pink and do not show well in photos .  They are like the sails on sport fish like marlin .  Only , of course, these are proportional to a jelly fish.  Enjoyed watching these for a while.  They move their bodies as if they were checking out the area.  Can't see any eyes but who knows.  Their tentacles are long and mean looking but tiny fish were moving in and out of them.  Maybe they are not affected by poison, can they be eating the jellyfish's food?  Stiltsville was  impressive up close.  Some houses in great repair and obviously lived in , some abandoned.  I am amazed they stand up to storms, they are completely unprotected.  Returned to boat.  Stowed engine, stowed dinghy and all else.  Set alarms.  Good day but ready to go.   

Waiting in Key Biscayne

Checked weather, checked again; seemed like a go.  So with great excitement we moved from Dinner Key to Key Biscayne. Just a few miles from Miami and Dinner Key, Key Biscayne is lovely and worth a visit all by itself .   We saw the beautiful schooner in the picture there. House isn't too bad either. This was a vacation spot for president Nixon and there is a little anchorage called Nixons with many boats.  Key Biscayne also  just off the Florida Channel which leads to the ocean and the Gulf Stream.  We were so excited.  We put the dinghy up on deck, stowed all stowables and  set alarm for 6am.  We wanted to be able to see and dawn is not until almost 7 down here. Hard to believe we would sleep till then without an alarm but we would. Went to bed with winds from the NE and had high hopes for SE maybe even SW by the time we awakened.  Said goodbye to Miami and environs. Turned out we said goodbye a little too soon.  Awakened to reports of NE wind forcast to become ESE the following day.  Patience.  Many decided to go but we elected to wait.  Our last rides over the stream have been pretty wild and we were ready for a good crossing.   

Waiting.....

We are sitting in Miami at Dinner Key waiting for good weather to cross the Gulf Stream. We are not alone. It is very difficult to just keep waiting. However, the wind is from the North and since the Gulf Stream flows from the South toward the North this sets up opposing wind and current. Waves can get big in this situation, about 5-8 feet or even bigger. We heard 18 while we were in Beaufort. Some people tackle it but we won't. It looks like a week or so but we are ready. Fuel is full, water is full, filters are new and we have a lot of groceries and beer and wine. Now if we can just keep from using everything up while we wait. Hope all had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Speaking of Bridges

There are 28 drawbridges between Palm Beach and Miami. There are many more along the way but 28 in about 60 miles is quite a challenge. Some bridges open on the hour and half hour. Some open at quarter of and quarter past. A couple are every 20 minutes. It is really a toss up as to whether or not you can manage the schedule. Many of the bridges are only 2 miles apart but if the current is against you making 2 miles in 15 minutes is impossible. We try to look at this as an exercise in patience however some days we can only make about 25 miles due to bridge schedules. Then, on our lucky day we picked up the Tug and Barge Cody C. We followed them from near Fort Pierce all the way to Hollywood Beach. This included 20 drawbridges. When they pushed in from the inlet just in front of us we were a bit bummed. They cruised at our speed sometimes but sometimes a little slower. Tom was trying to figure out if he could pass them but they weren't going slowly enough and they need a lot of room. Also this was Thanksgiving weekend so there was every kind of boat traffic. Think of Fourth of July on Cape Cod and double it! Really. So we followed them through the first bridge. Coast Guard regulations require bridges to open for commercial tugs and barges ; I think because they have such limited maneuverability they couldn't stop to wait. Every time a bridge came into sight Cody C would radio them saying " Commercial tug and barge requesting passage." Bridge tenders opened for them on schedule or not. Tom was right behind them literally and on the radio requesting passage through with the tug and barge. It was amazing. Just like doors opening in front of you. We had planned 2 days for this run or even 3 but we just went along like VIP's. The tug and barge had quite the hard time with all the wakes. There were so many boats and so little space that the wakes created a nasty chop of about 2 feet or more. Cody C said that the cables that held tug and barge together were straining when the wakes were largest. Wouldn't want to be too close to them if they separated. Finally, we needed fuel so we left Cody C . We really were so sad to see them go. The next three bridges took 2 hours . It was a 6 mile trip. We made the anchorage as dusk was falling. One amazing day!

Dolphin run

Some things never get old. As you get closer to Daytona the ICW is mostly straight . By itself it would not be too interesting but each time we have passed this way dolphins have accompanied us. This year we had 3 on starboard and 2 to port for a long distance. It is easy to head out of the channel because it is so enjoyable to watch them. I try diligently to get photos but they are too quick. All I ever get is water with ripples. On this run they were leaping and jumping clear out of the water. One was much smaller than the others , probably only 2 feet long. There was always an adult protectively next to it. Just as we thought they left us they would surface again. Sometimes as they swim by the boat they turn on their sides and seem to be looking at us. I wonder what they think.

St Augustine

Bridge of Lions is still under intensive construction with barges, boats and workmen at all hours. In spite of all the chaos it is still beautiful here. The bridge is closed many nights while concrete is being poured and I can't be sure whether the beautiful old supports will still be in place or new ones will be used. The temporary bridge sits side by side with what is left of the old and raises straight up and down like the railroad bridge on the Cape Cod Canal. It will be interesting to see what happens. Our run to St Augustine was short because we anchored off the Intracoastal just 15 miles north. The days are so short now that we can't make as much distance as we wish. The current picks up by the inlet here and by the time we rounded the buoys into St Augustine, we were moving at a good clip. The bridge opens on the hour and half hour except 8 AM noon and 5PM . We arrived just before noon so had to wait a bit but the fort and the surroundings are so enjoyable that the time passed quickly. Saw things from many different angles as we turned and backed in the current. We laughed thinking of last year when we cut the buoys and almost ran aground. Now when we see buoys with A, B C and D designations we figure a shoal is building and watch out pretty carefully. Tom is still tempted by the shallow water. St Augustine has tons of bars, restaurants and shops not much that you need is within walking distance except fun! Had a great visit with my neice Meg there and pushed off to the other end of the state.

Florida Freeze

Made Fernandina Beach on a blowy day, the winds have certainly been fierce. We toasted our arrival in Florida but the temps felt like we were skiing. Two nights ago we were in the marsh off the intracostal bundled up like polar bears. Florida set a new low temp record 28 degrees. By 2 or so in the afternoon it has warmed up to a blistering 56 but wow it is cold on board. In New England we have the good sense to stop sailing in this kind of weather. Fernandina Beach has a very industrial side but Amelia Island is actually very pretty. The marshes are still a lot like Georgia in fact some friends call all of Fla until St Augustine South Georgia , just because the the landscape takes a while to change. Weather forecast has been for more of the same so we will just leave the area and look for better bit of weather further south.

Highs and Lows

With the full moon, the Georgia tides are truly extreme. They always run about 9 feet. This boat was off once high tide came but yikes it is awful to see . The weather has been grey and cold but this low country is still beautiful. The waterways are winding and snakelike. The curves give good protection in anchorages since there is not much space for a fetch to build up. Creeks can be so deep. As we see shallow waters on our course and in the channel , we have also travelled half a mile or better to get out of 30 foot deep water so we can anchor in a creek! The marsh grasses are gold and green and over 5 feet tall. They are the major feature with trees when visible seeming very distant. Heron are everywhere, fishing on the muddy banks. Their harsh call still surprises me. They are so beautiful that they should have a lovely call too.

Charleston

We left Charleston behind this week after a few wonderful days. This city is as walkable as Boston , elegant , historic, and lively. It has a great sense of place. It is also a large commercial port with swift tides and a few interesting shoals in the harbor. This makes for many opportunities for maritime adventures. While we were there a few boats had anchoring drills as the currents changed and the direction shift caused their anchors to let go. The city is very friendly to cruising boats, and almost everyone on the way south makes a stop there. We caught up with boats we had seen along the way and talked with people we met in the Bahamas last year . Each time we visit Charleston, we leave reluctantly. The way south now heads into some seriously low country. The rest of SC and Georgia have some of the shallowest rivers and sounds anywhere. There are several dredged canals called Cuts, that link rivers and sounds and these shoal like crazy. Fields Cut , on the way to the Savannah river, is one of these spots. We looked for water on port and saw 4 feet on the depth sounder as we felt ourselves drag through the mud. We moved to the center and made a new channel. Starboard was no better but luckily it is a short passage. I hope the boats who follow us can use the channel we made although it does zig zag a bit. I think higher tide is the only answer.

Short Ferry Rides

This is a picture of the South Island ferry across the Estherville Minim Creek Canal just south of Georgetown SC. It must be the shortest ferry ride ever. The boat can carry 2 cars. I think it travels less than 100 feet. On Time from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick has a long journey compared to this.

Pelicans and Porpoise and Palm trees - oh my

Once we start to see palmettos along the shore we know that Charleston is close. The way through NC and into SC to Charleston is varied for sure. Having passed this way recently ,the overdevelopment does not seem so disturbing but the beauty is undiminished. The banks along Topsail Island still let you imagine pirates hiding near inlets ready to take merchant ships. The dunes that are not developed still look windswept and pine covered. They promise beauty and solitude. This go around we planned the Cape Fear route carefully. The trick here is to catch an outgoing tide through the cuts near Carolina Beach and on the Cape Fear River. But the tide should turn slack just at the end of your run down the river . Then as you turn sharp to starboard heading into the ICW at Southport the tide should turn to incoming and give you a boost for the next 10 or so miles. A good plan but it called for getting under way at 700am. We got the anchor up at 730 - a heroic effort. We really like our sleep. At any rate, we only fought the tide for 20 minutes just before the turn to Southport. That seemed like great planning or perhaps a miracle to us. Eventually we headed into the Waccamaw river. Wild and eerie but so very beautiful, this is the first place that we notice Spanish Moss hanging on the trees. It reminds me of beards on Old Testament figures. Soon the palmettos appear on the sandbars between the ocean and the ICW. They are so welcome. Charleston is close then and so are more tropical environs.

Camp Swampy

We delayed several days for weather in Beaufort NC. The wind howled and it poured and then poured and finally poured more. Beaufort is a great stop. Wild horses roam the banks, there is lots of bird life and dolphins play nearby. Also there are several wine stores, great bars and restaurants. We enjoyed but were anxious to keep moving . Cold is a good motivator for heading South. The winds were still up around 25 knots but these waters are fairly protected running inside the banks and along rivers and swamps. Eventually the ICW passes into marine territory around Camp Lejeune . We niticed flashing red lights on shore along with big red flags fkying from the observation towers. Just in case we were poorly informed, there was a small grey boat with NAVY GUARD BOAT emblazoned on the side. They thought we would not want to interfere with the marines storming Onslo Beach, especially since they were using live fire during these exercises. With logic like that what can you do? We threw out the hook and waited a couple of hours. There were at least 10 helicopters big and small , other than that we heard gun fire and large booms from ahead. We proceeded cautiously when they said it was ok to continue. Mile hammock a protected dredged pond was lively with night exercises but still a protected and good anchorage.

Dismal Swamp

The route through Virginia and Northern NC to Albermarle Sound can be done by the Virginia Cut or the Dismal Swamp. Virginia cut is a bit more direct. Often the Dismal Swamp has low water and sometimes it is closed. It is a historic route, parts of it were once owned by George Washington and there are granite mile markers still to be seen. We have traveled it before and I found it dismal indeed but great weather and bright sunshine as well as high water levels induced us to try again. Many boats had the same thoughts as we did and there was a virtual parade from one lock to the next. the locks raised and lowered us about 8 feet. Bright sunshine and good company dispelled any thoughts of dismal. NC has placed a footbridge across the route allowing access to a state park and wildlife preserve. I saw many birds and deer . There were also animal tracks esp deer . About 3 miles away from the entrance, I started to see what looked like bear tracks along with the many deer tracks. I was not too sure of my ID skills but still what confirmation did I really want? I turned around and ran a pretty good pace until I got closer to the museum and ranger station. Saw no bear. It got really cold as foul weather and high winds built back in . We waited out the weather in Elizabeth City at the end of the Dismal Swamp. What a welcoming place that is. As long as there are more than 4 boats in the harbor the town has a wine and cheese party! The mayor and "Rose Buddies" along with the cruisers had an enjoyable cocktail party each night. This tradition started years ago. Rose Buddies evidently started bring roses to the ladies on moored boats. Great stop, even in foul weather. The temps were 31 at night and radio was discussing wind chill. We have got to stop exploring and get moving south.

Forty Foot Surf Board

Chesapeake Bay turned wild after our days on the Potomac. High winds and waves saw us seeking refuge in the small harbor behind Old Point Comfort in Hampton. We sat there a few days and with winds finally below 30 knots surfed our way across the river to Norfolk. In the protected waters of the river we expected calmer seas. Luckily the wind and waves were behind us and we were being pushed toward our destination at something like 8 knots. Waves were not more than 5 feet but close together and powerful. Good to go with them because fighting them was just about out of the question. We were thinking Beach Boys and Jan and Dean while developing a whole new vision of long board surfing. Headed down the ditch next.

Potomac

Usually, we just cross the mouth of the Potomac but it looked like good weather and the current was with us so we explored. State boundaries on the river are marked by small orange and white buoys really not too different than the signs that mark the highway and say welcome to Massachusetts etc. But it was odd to pass a buoy that said State Border MD and VA. . For the most part the Potomac is MD water and VA starts at the high tide mark along the south side. I wonder how that decision was made? People who live in Va cross state lines every time they go into the water. We visited an island that is eroding rapidly. By the shore fossilized shark's teeth are appearing. In theory they are 10,000 years old. I thought that if they were that old they would be bigger. Also Blackbeard is thought to have visited these waters but no doubloons or pieces of eight appeared.

Hauled and Boarded

We made Baltimore in a screaming squall. Dark clouds replaced blue sky in a slow but determined way and there wasn't too much to do about it. Near the Key Bridge, the wind piped up to about 20 knots as rain and whitecaps took over a previously placid sea. The visibility was almost gone with grey everywhere. Tom sighted a buoy and kept the bow into the wind . Half an hour later the temperature was about 15 degrees cooler and the storm was over ! We hauled out in Baltimore. In addition to usual maintenance things , the pump was running every 1/2 hour or so. We could rationalize that when we had a wooden boat but Brilliant is not wood. Happily , Brendan arranged for us to be hauled at the yard he used and the Willises put us up in their home for wayward sailors. Turned out that the Cutlass bearing had backed itself out all the way to the prop. We got a new bearing put in, tightened the stuffing box and problem was solved. After Tom made Brendan and I slave over bottom paint, wax, buffers and varnish, we were launched and put in a slip for the night. Some of the staff were working on a boat in the next slip. They called that boat the "spider boat " because they found 3 Black Widow spiders on board. They told us that it had been fumigated , and that no one would work on it until the spiders were gone. I wished we were in a different slip. We were almost asleep that night when a black kitten jumped through the companionway and began to make itself at home. We put it ashore twice but it really wanted to be a boat cat. It prowled, it pounced , it pawed. Once it tried exploring the screen over the midship hatch. We saw the little paws but before any of us could move the cat had fallen through the screen and landed in the cabin- on it's feet! Ashore it went again and this time we closed the hatches. Not too early the next morning we raised sail heading for the Eastern Shore. The rigging and stays were covered in spiderwebs! Black cats and spiders, Early Halloween? Baltimore has a great feel to it these days. Fells bars are fun and nicer than I remember, I think we put a good dent in the oyster population. Hospitality at the Willis home for wayward sailors was extraordinary as usual. On our way again. Great layover.

Baltimore after delays and delays

We finally made it through the East River on the 24th . After Hell Gate, Roosevelt Island splits the East River into 2 channels. The West channel goes along Manhattan , the UN, Tudor city and other NY landmarks. The East Channel is crossed by a drawbridge about a mile after Hell Gate. This drawbridge, coming so soon after Hell Gate is the reason we always try for the West Channel of the river. With the West Chanel still closed for security, there weren't other options. The Drawbridge needs 15 minutes notice before opening. We calculated and decided to call just as we passed hell Gate. As it turned out we tore through Hell Gate at about 10 knots and saw the bridge loom up at about the same time as we requested the opening. Tom eased the throttle and turned around to wait but the current was still strong and we were traveling backward at a pretty good clip. The bridge still wasn't open. In 15 minutes ,( seemed longer) we finally got through. It seemed we were barely under way again when we were met by Coast Guard and NYPD boats. The river was closed for an hour near the heliport. Nobody , really nobody could go past. The Staten Island ferry was stopped, commercial tugs and barges were warned to stay out, everyone waited. Eventually the helicopter left and we heard radio announcement that south bound sails on the East river were allowed to pass . New York is an adventure even on water. We sailed off to Sandy Hook and Atlantic Highlands, planning to spend the evening. It was a great sail. We ended up waiting in Sandy Hook for tropical storm Kyle's winds and seas to pass. We were there for a long for 5 days.

After such a long wait, we planned to sail the whole coast of NJ through the night, put fuel on in Cape May then run Delaware Bay and catch a fair tide through the C and D canal . Sailing down the coast of NJ was wonderful . The wind was a little too calm for sail alone but the ocean swells diminished as we motorsailed . The stars twinkled and the lights of Atlantic City showed up almost 20 miles out. It seemed that every boat that waited for weather was out, commercial traffic, fishing boats, other sailors heading south . It was really busy. Every time Tom turned the helm over to me, he would say "stay out of the shipping lanes!! " I think he was nervous but tired enough to close his eyes anyway. The radio was lively most of the night. Several times we heard "south bound sail at ...lat and long, this is the north bound freighter or ATB directly astern of you". Those boats are huge; can you imagine looking up at night to see one directly astern? Staying out of the shipping lanes was good advice! As we got toward Cape May,dawn was beginning and rumors started coming over the radio. The general gist was that the C and D was closed until further notice -- a freighter was aground . There was a lot of discussion but we hoped the mess would be cleared by the time we got there . Delaware Bay is 50 miles long and that takes us a long time. As it turned out, by 1030 am all was cleared up. A freighter had gone aground but was off and hadn't leaked. We caught the current and flew to Chesapeake City and a night asleep in our bed instead of the cockpit. Made Batimore the next day.

On the seas again

Lots of water under the keel since the last post. Seems like we have been reefed down hard doing almost 9 knots or powering with no wind at all. After a great visit in home waters we have been heading South again. Currently, we are docked at the New York Athletic Club Yacht Club. This wonderful space is courtesy of Tom's cousin Dean, a great host even if he is a Giants fan . We have always had a ball here but this time planned a quick overnight waiting for favorable tides in NY city. They are early this week so we were underway today about 645 ( 0dark 45 really) . As we approached the East River we listened to a securite announcement by the Coast Guard. It turns out that the East River is closed most of the morning as well as most of the afternoon for security. The UN figured prominently in all announcements so we think that the president's speech at the UN is cause for heightened security. Since we want light and fair tide for this bit of water we will have to wait. We were back at the dock before 8:00 am . Felt a little like turning around the Constitution . Tomorrow is another day.

Chesapeake Bay

It has been so wonderful to be sailing again! The sails have been up and the engine has been resting most of the time . Bliss. So nice to have room to tack or just find the best angle for the wind. We have had a few long sails enjoying every minute of them, and finding our way to Deltaville, Solomons Island , Annapolis and Baltimore. These places are great fun each one different and full of opportunities for exploration and sailing!!!!!!! Brendan met us in Annapolis and we were able to spend a few days exploring the "sailing capitol" with hinm as well as seeing the Willis crew and Baltimore . There are tons of boats here. We have only been here in Fall and Spring so it is a wonderful surprise to see the zillions of marinas full , the races of all descriptions, the head boats and the classic craft. New England definately does not have a monopoly on classic and beautiful sailboats . We also met one of the fine Annopolis police officers in her boat on harbor patrol. We were literally 50 feet from our boat after a great dinner and harbor tour via dinghy. With our boat so close we really didn't believe the officer meant us when the loud speaker blared "sir take the boat out of gear for me." She had blue lights flashing and there was no one else around - bad situation land or sea. We however, had our experience with the Palm Beach safety inspection to build on. We could produce a whistle, an anchor, a flashlight and two life jackets as well as registration etc. However, the officer did feel that we needed 3 life jackets for 3 people - who could argue. She would not entertain the notion of the flashlight as a running light and took a dim view of the fact that a few of the numbers had worn off on one side of the dinghy. She was not even slightly impressed by the fact that we had replacements in the sailboat and would be happy to put them on in front of her. Ninety dollars later we traveled the few yards to our boat and debated whether we would show up in court in October. If only we could dream up a defense.

Weather has been pretty good, hot and windy in the afternoon with T Storms around 6 or 7. Lots of people are swimming. But there is a process. Get as high as you can on your boat, look all around for sea nettles, jump in and get out fairly quickly. Sea nettles are jelly fish about 4 inches across . they are ghostly white and have long - really about 20 inch - tentacles. They look awful. I've been swimming in pools.

There is so much sailing around here it is just wonderful. We have sailed for the most part around Cape Cod and the islands, Maine and Rhode Island away from city ports. The shipping centers fascinate me. The activity is non stop. On the dock, boats load using all kinds of tractors, fork lifts and trucks. It is a little like all the Tonka trucks the kids used years ago. Seeing huge ships negotiate the channels right next to us and seeing tugs and tows or barges everywhere has given me a whole new appreciation for yielding to tonnage. Still everyone manages to co exist reasonably well as far as I could see. After all, there is finally room to tack if necessary. We expect to leave Va and Md tomorrow headed to Cape May. Things are starting starting to look like home, no more Palm trees or Spanish Moss, no more alligators. It does my heart good but Tom is already pining for the tropics. The sailing and the thought of seeing family and friends is saving him from being morose about heading north.

Fourth of July !

It took several more days of ICW ditch cruising to traverse North Carolina. After many creeks and marshes, swamps and canals we finally made Virginia. The last bit of NC and the entry to VA includes several draw bridges, a lock and a few train bridges. Most of these open on a schedule usually every half hour or hourly. It can be slow going if you show up 5 minutes late. Then the busy harbor of Norfolk is almost culture shock. There are yachts, navy vessels, freighters, tugs. barges, personal water craft and motor boats every where. There are ferries and tour boats as well. A few people even try tubing in this busy place . We passed through hauled up the sails and spend a few blissful hours on the Chesapeake. Then, with storm clouds gathering we headed into Back river and anchored. After dark we could see fireworks in an arc of about 300 degrees around us! Everywhere we looked there were fireworks. Only over the Bay and the harbor entrance did we see night sky. As it turns out even that was lighting up with lightning! The natural fireworks were even more impressive than all the others combined.

The Carolinas

We've been working our way up the ICW through the Carolinas. It is a snake like path for the most part full of twists then straightening for canals and cuts which link rivers and creeks . The channel is fairly narrow in most places and that makes sailing a real challenge. Straying out of the channel means you go aground hard and fast. South Carolina is still a bit tropical but slowly becomes that unique blend of seashore, marsh, river and swamp that is Low Country. It is not great sailing but it is beautiful in a spooky and wild sort of way. As with everything , it is also more developed even than last fall! We have spent some time in fabulous places here. Beaufort ( Bew ) of Pat Conroy fame. This is the setting Conroy's many books and for the films Conrack and Prince of Tides. I guess some of the Forrest Gump shots were made here too. People here still talk about Nick Nolte and Tom Hanks as if they were local. Fast running rivers eventually lead to Charleston . The currents here are fierce as two rivers come together to make Charleston Harbor. This makes docking such an adventure. We watched one skipper try to put the dock on his starboard side but the current just grabbed him and turned him around completely. There were a few chances for a port side tie up but after several turns in the narrow dock area he finally tied up. This was accomplished with the required calls to fend off and scampering on deck along with helpful supervision from anyone on the docks. Sometimes you watch the show ; sometimes you are the show! Charleston just never disappoints. So much history took place here. Tales of pirates, war heroes and scoundrels abound. I do have a somewhat different take on the War of Northern aggression but never mind. Each afternoon the skies let go with deluges of rain, thunder and lightening. We were wading in the street almost knee deep to get to a bar - just for shelter of course. The bar tender was from Boston. Once we talked with him , he played Drop Kick Murphys and Dirty Water for us. I said something about the flooding and he just said welcome to low country happens all the time! Georgetown, about 60 miles away. is an old city that now has busy, noisy papermills . It was the homebase of Francis Marion the Swamp Fox of Revolutionary war fame. Their harbor is not big but it is quite pleasant. There is a riverwalk around the whole harbor for an enjoyable stroll. The water is river brown here as in most of the ICW along this stretch. After Tom saw an alligator, I was completely against a swim no matter how hot it got. Many people were water skiing and tubing though. We are now in Beaufort - (BO ) NC with it's charming waterfront. There is a ton of development on the Morehead City side of things but it can't quite ruin the beauty of Beaufort and the outer banks. Saw many wild ponies and wading birds near Cape Lookout. Moving along tomorrow if the Tstorms let up .

Georgia

Georgia has been hot and beautiful. Still a storm every afternoon but we are beginning to think that must be the weather pattern. The sea islands are lovely. On Cumberland Island, some of the wild horses were galloping across the beach and around the ruins of their old stables at Dungeness - the Carnegie mansion. We stopped at Jeckyll Island with this shrimp boat practically running us down. With the stabilizers down, they sure take up a lot of room. He came into the dock just behind us. They needed to raise some money for fuel so they were selling shrimp from the boat. Jumbo $3.50 a pound Medium $2.50. Really couldn't get any fresher! He had many sales in the marina and the on site restaurant bought shrimp too . Jeckyll is very beautiful with fairly strict limits on development. Many robber barons spent winters there in the early 1900's. Their cottages have been preserved in a museum. They are lovely, not on the scale of Newport just your average 5-10 bedroom Victorian mansion. These cottages all used a central clubhouse, central stables and carriage house. It is a spectacular hotel now - the Jeckyll Island club. We ate breakfast there , felt wonderfully pampered and wished we had the resources of JP Morgan, Crane, Rockefeller , or some of the others. It would be easy to spend a month or more here.

Florida

We've been having a wonderful time exploring Florida. Vero Beach, Peck's Lake, Cocoa , Daytona Beach, St Augustine. and Fernandina The ICW cuts through canals , cities and marshes. I can imagine that eventually we will get sick of the meandering waterways but not yet. Although the color of the water is very yucky compared to the Bahamas. The abundance of birdlife in the marshes is astonishing. There are pelicans, gulls, cormorants, ibis with their odd bills and elegant herons and egrets by the score. And we have seen many roseate spoonbills. Aren't these the weirdest birds ever? I saw a picture of them at the Audubon museum in Key West years ago and have wanted to see one since. Several searches have generated only quick glimpses of pink blobs. Up close and esp when the birds are flying they are intense pink, they have red eyes and a bill like a duck but longer. Bizarre but cool. These two birds in the marsh are just some of many that we have seen. Often I am too astonished to even grab the camera. Before I saw these I thought the only pink birds were flamingos. The abundance of life in general has been a pleasure. We have seen more dolphins than we saw all winter in just these few days. In fact the abundance of everything here in the states is quite remarkable. The other day it rained really hard and we realized that we hadn't seen more than 5 days of rain in the Bahamas all winter. I understand that it is rainy season now so things may be different, but we were ready to jump into action and save the water filling all the tanks etc. The contrast between the dry coral islands and the marshes is huge. Thunder storms also seem to be abundant and some of these are really ferocious. We have watched the lightning from far away forking down from the sky and touching the water or ground. A few days ago, near Jacksonville we got caught and had to throw down the anchor just on the side of the ICW . We were just out of the channel and the squalls spun us a full 360 degrees - twice ! The rain was so fierce there was no visibility and lightning was all around us. We had anchored near a bridge so we hoped for a "cone of protection" from that higher structure but wow. After an hour and a half things settled and the thunder became just a dull roar. The dinghy in that short time filled with almost knee deep water! wild. There has been thunder and lightning almost daily but nothing like that . It would be all right if that stuff were less plentiful.

Stateside

Once we decided to head home, we started to think of weather windows. There is still so much of the Bahamas to see but once the decision was made we wanted to go. The weather had been great for a while but predictions called for tropical storms, squalls, and lightning forming South of us. It looked like the window was closing fast...and for about a week. We decided to go before it closed. That meant leave RIGHT NOW, a night crossing. Reports called for wind from SE at 13 -17 knots, building to 20-25 the following day. Seas 2-4 building to 4-6 feet, higher in the gulf stream. The forecasts seemed to indicate that we would make port before things got too strong. We departed Gun Cay at about 645PM and literally sailed into the setting sun. Great feeling! We had reefed the main and were zooming along at 6 1/2 knots before we even got the jib up. Waves were off the stern quarter and while on the 4 foot side of 2-4 they were ok. With the jib up we saw 8 knots consistently. We hadn't reached the Gulf Stream yet and I was nervous about what that would throw at us. But as Tom said " What a sail!" By about an hour after dark we were making 9 knots, but felt a little overpowered, so we reeled in the jib and sailed under just the reefed main - at 7 - 8 knots. We were flying. There was no moon, the stars were bright and we were appreciating the "exhilarating sail" . Unexpectedly, a voice sounded on the radio, hailing a vessel at so many degrees North and West . "This is the US Coast Guard please respond". We couldn't believe they wanted to talk to us but there was no one else around and it was our position so...We discussed the vessel's name and official numbers, length , passengers, contraband (or lack thereof), destination etc. By now the waves and wind were really "exhilarating" but the thought of turning into the wind and heaving to was daunting. After standing by for a while the CG said "thanks and have a safe trip. " Actually, it was kind of nice to know they were out there. Tom ,was having a glorious time surfing down the waves but it took a lot of steering. I was helpfully singing Beach Boys and Jan and Dean "surfing" songs to him to keep him awake. It was a beautiful night. However, the wind kept building, and the waves got bigger all the way to the coast. We were about a mile off Lake Worth Buoy before dawn . When we turned into the wind to douse the main, we slammed into waves that felt solid. Sailing down wind is better!! With first light we headed into the harbor , we had sailed 80 miles in under 11 hours mostly under a reefed main . Amazing , then we slept like logs.

We have decided to cruise around the states this summer as it turns out we have a few things to organize. So we planned to spend a night on the Bahama Banks, visit Cat Cay and Gun Cay maybe Bimini and cross the Gulf Stream this week. We have both heard people talk about tossing out a hook on the banks as if it is no big deal at all. So we were pretty excited. It seemed such a great idea to anchor on the shallows surrounded by nothing but water. Miles and miles of water 7 to 12 feet deep. It would be great. Thought we might see some more marine life. As we set out from Chub, the wind died and we drifted, and drifted and drifted. Beautiful , but not really sailing. About 5 pm the wind improved and we maybe made 3 1/2 knots. Then as the sun set we were making almost 5. As the anchor went down , the seas came up. We were really moving at this point , up and down, hobbyhorsing like mad. This was not the scene we had imagined. It was so odd, we were anchored in less than 10 feet of water , the sunset was lovely there were a few clouds but nothing too serious looking. We saw nothing and no one for miles and miles. The sea which had seemed so smooth all day had turned into a choppy mess. Steep, choppy waves were beating us up. There wasn't even very much wind. There certainly wasn't much sleeping. We were underway the next day before 6. Glad to put the seas to our stern. Guess what? The wind died and we could barely make way under sail!

Mysterious Thunk

We left Nassau Harbor for Chub Cay on Monday . Nassau is city and touristy but you can certainly have some fun there. Still, we were glad to be departing and were just out of the harbor, sun shining, sea sparkling , engine ticking along when there was a mysterious thunk. Yikes, never good. we didn't think we hit anything , there was no impact. Engine kept running but not quite right. Tom went running too. He had just replaced Racor and filters and assumed someting not installed properly. Engine looked fine and all pressures etc were fine, Filters were not leaking. Bilges were happily not filling with water and the pumps were not in overdrive. Of course by now we are in 500 or so feet of water with cruise ships behind us. so neither of us were up for swimming. We reversed, reved and listened . Engine working but things just seemed off a little. No wind at all, couldn't even make 2 knots with sails so powered all the way to Chub. Set hook and dove on bottom and prop. A clear plastic bag of the heavy duty and extra large variety was wrapped around the prop. It was pretty well shredded but still there. By the time I got the knife out Tom had already loosened it and removed all. Aren't we lucky that was it!

Bahamian Sloops

In summer the Bahamains hold their regattas. The one in Georgetown is in April, and they go on through the summer. These regattas draw boats from all over the islands. The Bahamian boats carry a lot of canvas and at least one class has hiking boards that remind me of the log canoes in the Chesapeake. We talked with one a man building a smaller sloop in his yard in Black Point ,Exuma. The wood is sawn , not steamed and then the hull is strip planked. It is interesting to see the design, which has almost no cut away in the bow or stern. There is almost as much keel as waterline. It seems that these boats still can routinely sink during a race , probably because they carry so much sail . The masts are huge and the boom extends further than any catboat we've ever sailed. The post race parties last well into the morning hours. Some things about sailors are universal I guess.

Cambridge Cay

Another astonishing place in the Exuma land and Sea park is Cambridge Cay. We found probably the very best beach ever here. There was also plenty of exploring and hiking and snorkeling but water based activities stopped at about 4 pm as two rather large andvery fast bull sharks cruised through the anchorage every day at that time. They were impressive , large and very fast. They were followed by a barracuda who looked positively benign in contrast. It was really fun to watch these guys from the safety of the boat. We mentioned them to the park ranger and he said Yea they seem to come in here every evening. I don't trust bull sharks and I wouldn't get in the water with them. I wouldn't either!

Wardrick Wells

We've spent a few days at the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. We've been there before but this is a different anchorage. It as fun to be in a familiar area just the same. The park is one of the very best parts of the Exumas. We've been hiking and snorkeling a lot. This anchorage is a deep semi circle around a sand bar that is partially dry at low tide. We often would have drinks on the sand bar if the tide was right. Some folks on the boat behind us made this break into an art form bring chairs, a cooler and a beach umbrella. (They are in the picture) Great fun especially since the boat is really only about 5 feet away but in 20 feet of water. A couple of boat lengths away we snorkeled on a wreck of a boat which, according to local stories, caught fire and sank at a mooring. Supposedly the skipper left the boat while the generator was running. It is a bit eerie to see a boat not too different from yours on the bottom growing coral . The current really rips through this area so we got a brief view of the wreck then swam like crazy to get back and see it again for just a few seconds. After a bit we smartened up and snorkeled at slack tide. The natural beauty here is amazing.