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Monday, February 18, 2008

Black point Settlement


This is a Bahamian community that welcomes cruisers. It is on Great Guana Cay about halfway down the Exumas. Right about now there are probably 40 boats in the harbor. We left Big Major spot with the wind at out back about 17knots. We were flying GPS said 7.1 k. then we rounded the point and found a steep chop and the wind right on the nose. Speed immediately decreased to 3Knots. We had to power to keep on course. The harbor was only about 5 miles away though so no big deal. Windy and sunny so I guess we should check out the beaches! But we have been swimming off the boat.
Spent two days walking, exploring, and meeting the inhabitants of this native village. Most of the economy revolves around straw weaving which they sell to the straw market in Nassau. We sit in the cafe using the computer, next door to the laundramat, awaiting our wash. Good place and day to wind down.

Pig Beach



Pig Beach: the female pigs were really friendly and tried to climb into the dinghy the boar was more aggressive . We stayed off that beach when he was around. These guys swam too!

Staniel Cay



We have been having a ball in Staniel Cay snorkeling and swimming non stop. There are many nurse sharks and rays. The cave used to film Thunderball and Splash is a great snorkel and at low tide you do not even need to dive to get into the cave. Once inside the cave there is a wide open feeling with sun light through holes in the ceiling. You can dive down and come out the other side for more coral heads and underwater sights. The fish are abundant and colorful . There are hundreds of sargent majors as well as numerous parrotfish, grouper and so many more. At slack tide it is ok to just float but as the tide starts to run you go flying with it . pretty fun. The day after we left I found out that they had a hammer head shark there!!!! I am glad I didn't know. There are so many places to dinghy and swim and snorkel the trick is to figure out where you want to go. Everyplace is beautiful and exciting. Reefs are everywhere. This makes it a bit dicey to navigate the Brilliant but fun to dinghy and swim. One beach is the home to pigs who come on out to greet your boat and hope for food. We got rid of a few orange rinds that way.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Exuma Land and Sea Park




It was wild weather for a couple of days . The wind blew about 30 Knots all the time. We are really in tune to the weather these days and I am surprised that it was so easy to ignore at home . We were well protected overall but it was still a bouncy night or 3. One woman in a less protected anchorage said that at one point she felt like the hand of God picked them up and shook them. So eloquent - I just compared it to being in a washing machine. Still beautiful though. We were able to find a trail home afterour hike that took just under 2 hours so much better! i was surprised when after one day Tom was willing to take another walk. There are a few things called blowing holes on top on one of the hills. these holes are not too impressive from above but they go all the way down to the ocean and when the waves crash in a huge gust of wind comes up through the hole! It is really forceful and surprised us by blowing our hats off. Tom said I was not allowed to compare it to his snoring but...... The hill is said to be haunted by ghosts of a schooner that wrecked on the reef. I guess some settlers thought that the noise made in these holes was a ghost saying Boo and now it is caled Boo Boo Hill. We could spent weeks here.

Monday, February 11, 2008

Exumas

We sailed to the Exuma Land and Sea park from Eluthra. Just when I think things can't get any better, they do. The park is about 20 miles long over several cays and out 4 miles on either side. We are in Warderick Wells Cay . The southern anchorage of this cay is entered from Exuma Sound. We'll go through the cut to Bahama Bank when we leave. The sound is really deep and the water is that same amazing blue as in the gulf stream and the North Providence Channel. Charts show about 1600 meters or so. Winds were about 15 knots and the course really close hauled but sailable. We got here in the early afternoon and were swimming 2 minutes after picking up a mooring. The snorkeling is amazing and we have seen Big Spotted Eagle rays and as well as all the colorful fish associated with tropical reefs. There are lion fish here and fire coral but we have avoided them. It is quite remote , we had to hike almost 3 hours to get to the internet hot spot. The islands are almost all coral and riddled with deep holes some filled with water some just deep . Great places to hide pieces of eight but I can't imagine how to retrieve the treasure.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Superbowl Sunday




Who knew that this was the game we really should have watched! This is a great beach on the ocean side of Govenors Harbor. It is astonishing : another day another gorgeous beach. This one was almost deserted and snorkeling was good right off shore. We did find a bit of flotsum and jetsom including this TV. Not quite the shells we were looking for. there were only 2 boats in the harbor , us and friends we have seen throughout this trip.I can't figure out why since the town is really authentic and varied. It was once the seat of government for the Bahamas and has history back to the first settlers of the Bahamas. There is a fabulous library and several old and exquisite churches. the older buildings are prettier than the new. The old jail is in ruins and according to local stories wasn't even locked in the end of its use. Almost everything you need is available. No marina but we lugged fuel and water in cans. The water in the harbor was crystal clear . Charts say poor holding but once set the anchor held well . There was no protection from the west but prevailing winds are E . It felt wonderful! We saw the super debacle in a bar called ronnie's place. Barbacue was delivered to the room with the big screen Tv from across the street. The food was good with varieties similar to what we have seen elsewhere. rice and macaroni and cheese and bread and corn and rib or chicken in barbacue sauce. We need to be working really hard sailing and walking to work that stuff off!!The crowd was fun at the game. A bunch of guys from a nearby resort, and us and many local people. I was surprised thata Bahamians were interested. Pats fans and Giants fans were pretty much an equal mix. Beer was 2 for$5. It was a hugh bargain since beer is really expensive here. I went for the goombay smashes anyway! What else is there to say. We might as well stop there. It was a raucous fun night until the end. The bar owner was a Giants fan.

I haven't had internet access for a while. We made our crossing to Eluthra on a beautiful day ; but the wind was right on our nose . We really tried to sail but with light breezes on the nose it ended up being jib out to port and luffing then jib out to starboard and luffing then jib in. Then try it all again eventually we just powered. I was surprised at the ocean swells. They were slow with a good interval but about 6- 8 feet . I would look behind us and see the other boats in a trough or a big wave and be a tad intimidated . If you just looked ahead, it was really pleasant. Cut between Egg and Little Egg and made Royal Harbor close to sunset. Good harbor but there is a lot of development around the harbor. Ferries bring workers in almost constantly. People crowd on and off these little ferries. the work starts about 7 and the ferries start about 630. We headed toward Spanish Wells much earlier than anticipated!