Dolphin run

Some things never get old. As you get closer to Daytona the ICW is mostly straight . By itself it would not be too interesting but each time we have passed this way dolphins have accompanied us. This year we had 3 on starboard and 2 to port for a long distance. It is easy to head out of the channel because it is so enjoyable to watch them. I try diligently to get photos but they are too quick. All I ever get is water with ripples. On this run they were leaping and jumping clear out of the water. One was much smaller than the others , probably only 2 feet long. There was always an adult protectively next to it. Just as we thought they left us they would surface again. Sometimes as they swim by the boat they turn on their sides and seem to be looking at us. I wonder what they think.

St Augustine

Bridge of Lions is still under intensive construction with barges, boats and workmen at all hours. In spite of all the chaos it is still beautiful here. The bridge is closed many nights while concrete is being poured and I can't be sure whether the beautiful old supports will still be in place or new ones will be used. The temporary bridge sits side by side with what is left of the old and raises straight up and down like the railroad bridge on the Cape Cod Canal. It will be interesting to see what happens. Our run to St Augustine was short because we anchored off the Intracoastal just 15 miles north. The days are so short now that we can't make as much distance as we wish. The current picks up by the inlet here and by the time we rounded the buoys into St Augustine, we were moving at a good clip. The bridge opens on the hour and half hour except 8 AM noon and 5PM . We arrived just before noon so had to wait a bit but the fort and the surroundings are so enjoyable that the time passed quickly. Saw things from many different angles as we turned and backed in the current. We laughed thinking of last year when we cut the buoys and almost ran aground. Now when we see buoys with A, B C and D designations we figure a shoal is building and watch out pretty carefully. Tom is still tempted by the shallow water. St Augustine has tons of bars, restaurants and shops not much that you need is within walking distance except fun! Had a great visit with my neice Meg there and pushed off to the other end of the state.

Florida Freeze

Made Fernandina Beach on a blowy day, the winds have certainly been fierce. We toasted our arrival in Florida but the temps felt like we were skiing. Two nights ago we were in the marsh off the intracostal bundled up like polar bears. Florida set a new low temp record 28 degrees. By 2 or so in the afternoon it has warmed up to a blistering 56 but wow it is cold on board. In New England we have the good sense to stop sailing in this kind of weather. Fernandina Beach has a very industrial side but Amelia Island is actually very pretty. The marshes are still a lot like Georgia in fact some friends call all of Fla until St Augustine South Georgia , just because the the landscape takes a while to change. Weather forecast has been for more of the same so we will just leave the area and look for better bit of weather further south.

Highs and Lows

With the full moon, the Georgia tides are truly extreme. They always run about 9 feet. This boat was off once high tide came but yikes it is awful to see . The weather has been grey and cold but this low country is still beautiful. The waterways are winding and snakelike. The curves give good protection in anchorages since there is not much space for a fetch to build up. Creeks can be so deep. As we see shallow waters on our course and in the channel , we have also travelled half a mile or better to get out of 30 foot deep water so we can anchor in a creek! The marsh grasses are gold and green and over 5 feet tall. They are the major feature with trees when visible seeming very distant. Heron are everywhere, fishing on the muddy banks. Their harsh call still surprises me. They are so beautiful that they should have a lovely call too.

Charleston

We left Charleston behind this week after a few wonderful days. This city is as walkable as Boston , elegant , historic, and lively. It has a great sense of place. It is also a large commercial port with swift tides and a few interesting shoals in the harbor. This makes for many opportunities for maritime adventures. While we were there a few boats had anchoring drills as the currents changed and the direction shift caused their anchors to let go. The city is very friendly to cruising boats, and almost everyone on the way south makes a stop there. We caught up with boats we had seen along the way and talked with people we met in the Bahamas last year . Each time we visit Charleston, we leave reluctantly. The way south now heads into some seriously low country. The rest of SC and Georgia have some of the shallowest rivers and sounds anywhere. There are several dredged canals called Cuts, that link rivers and sounds and these shoal like crazy. Fields Cut , on the way to the Savannah river, is one of these spots. We looked for water on port and saw 4 feet on the depth sounder as we felt ourselves drag through the mud. We moved to the center and made a new channel. Starboard was no better but luckily it is a short passage. I hope the boats who follow us can use the channel we made although it does zig zag a bit. I think higher tide is the only answer.

Short Ferry Rides

This is a picture of the South Island ferry across the Estherville Minim Creek Canal just south of Georgetown SC. It must be the shortest ferry ride ever. The boat can carry 2 cars. I think it travels less than 100 feet. On Time from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick has a long journey compared to this.

Pelicans and Porpoise and Palm trees - oh my

Once we start to see palmettos along the shore we know that Charleston is close. The way through NC and into SC to Charleston is varied for sure. Having passed this way recently ,the overdevelopment does not seem so disturbing but the beauty is undiminished. The banks along Topsail Island still let you imagine pirates hiding near inlets ready to take merchant ships. The dunes that are not developed still look windswept and pine covered. They promise beauty and solitude. This go around we planned the Cape Fear route carefully. The trick here is to catch an outgoing tide through the cuts near Carolina Beach and on the Cape Fear River. But the tide should turn slack just at the end of your run down the river . Then as you turn sharp to starboard heading into the ICW at Southport the tide should turn to incoming and give you a boost for the next 10 or so miles. A good plan but it called for getting under way at 700am. We got the anchor up at 730 - a heroic effort. We really like our sleep. At any rate, we only fought the tide for 20 minutes just before the turn to Southport. That seemed like great planning or perhaps a miracle to us. Eventually we headed into the Waccamaw river. Wild and eerie but so very beautiful, this is the first place that we notice Spanish Moss hanging on the trees. It reminds me of beards on Old Testament figures. Soon the palmettos appear on the sandbars between the ocean and the ICW. They are so welcome. Charleston is close then and so are more tropical environs.

Camp Swampy

We delayed several days for weather in Beaufort NC. The wind howled and it poured and then poured and finally poured more. Beaufort is a great stop. Wild horses roam the banks, there is lots of bird life and dolphins play nearby. Also there are several wine stores, great bars and restaurants. We enjoyed but were anxious to keep moving . Cold is a good motivator for heading South. The winds were still up around 25 knots but these waters are fairly protected running inside the banks and along rivers and swamps. Eventually the ICW passes into marine territory around Camp Lejeune . We niticed flashing red lights on shore along with big red flags fkying from the observation towers. Just in case we were poorly informed, there was a small grey boat with NAVY GUARD BOAT emblazoned on the side. They thought we would not want to interfere with the marines storming Onslo Beach, especially since they were using live fire during these exercises. With logic like that what can you do? We threw out the hook and waited a couple of hours. There were at least 10 helicopters big and small , other than that we heard gun fire and large booms from ahead. We proceeded cautiously when they said it was ok to continue. Mile hammock a protected dredged pond was lively with night exercises but still a protected and good anchorage.

Dismal Swamp

The route through Virginia and Northern NC to Albermarle Sound can be done by the Virginia Cut or the Dismal Swamp. Virginia cut is a bit more direct. Often the Dismal Swamp has low water and sometimes it is closed. It is a historic route, parts of it were once owned by George Washington and there are granite mile markers still to be seen. We have traveled it before and I found it dismal indeed but great weather and bright sunshine as well as high water levels induced us to try again. Many boats had the same thoughts as we did and there was a virtual parade from one lock to the next. the locks raised and lowered us about 8 feet. Bright sunshine and good company dispelled any thoughts of dismal. NC has placed a footbridge across the route allowing access to a state park and wildlife preserve. I saw many birds and deer . There were also animal tracks esp deer . About 3 miles away from the entrance, I started to see what looked like bear tracks along with the many deer tracks. I was not too sure of my ID skills but still what confirmation did I really want? I turned around and ran a pretty good pace until I got closer to the museum and ranger station. Saw no bear. It got really cold as foul weather and high winds built back in . We waited out the weather in Elizabeth City at the end of the Dismal Swamp. What a welcoming place that is. As long as there are more than 4 boats in the harbor the town has a wine and cheese party! The mayor and "Rose Buddies" along with the cruisers had an enjoyable cocktail party each night. This tradition started years ago. Rose Buddies evidently started bring roses to the ladies on moored boats. Great stop, even in foul weather. The temps were 31 at night and radio was discussing wind chill. We have got to stop exploring and get moving south.

Forty Foot Surf Board

Chesapeake Bay turned wild after our days on the Potomac. High winds and waves saw us seeking refuge in the small harbor behind Old Point Comfort in Hampton. We sat there a few days and with winds finally below 30 knots surfed our way across the river to Norfolk. In the protected waters of the river we expected calmer seas. Luckily the wind and waves were behind us and we were being pushed toward our destination at something like 8 knots. Waves were not more than 5 feet but close together and powerful. Good to go with them because fighting them was just about out of the question. We were thinking Beach Boys and Jan and Dean while developing a whole new vision of long board surfing. Headed down the ditch next.