Nassau to Staniel

Wild winds seemed to be the order of the day and we saw better than 20 knots for 3 days in Chub.  Tom had a chance to chat with our friend Frank Cassidy and our son Brendan,  engineers both, about our  engine problems .  What a great bonus it was to bounce ideas and concerns around .  I hope they know how much we appreciate their time and advice.  We ruled out  one thing after another but nothing definate ruled in! Nassau is a city and has many goods and services lots of tourist  pleasers and a lot of bad stuff that seems everywhere.  The working waterfront is a bit depressed but there is a lot to explore. 

 We were a bit worried about setting off for Nassau without being sure of the engine but there was one day with predicted winds of less than 20knots and it looked like we could put those winds behind us.  So deep breath for me and off we went.  We sailed until we got to the harbor and hoped that the protection in there would keep us from engine trouble. the engine really only acts up in big seas.   Great sail, big seas but broad reach to run the whole way.  Then, we sat in Nassau with 25-30 knot winds for a few days. Wild weather!  More discussion with our consultants.  It is difficult to solve a problem when you can't seem to figure out what the problem is.  Finally, Tom put in a small fuel pump between the Racor and the engine. Marine Diesel the Yanmar mechanics in Nassau have done this before.   It is switched so it runs when the engine is running.   Left Nassau with another short window and  headed for the Exumas. Our course was just about 25 degrees off the wind . We think that we should be able to sail that but we need to tack too much to make any time.  We  decided to motorsail to make either Normans or Shroud and that would be a good test  for our engine solution.  It worked! As we sailed closer and closer to the protection of the islands everything got better.  The water here even on a cloudy day is spectacular. We are thrilled to be here .  We are meeting pat and Michelle , Brendan and Lexi here and there is no better Christmas gift.  We are anchored off the beach with the swimming pigs and can't wait to show everyone the places we so enjoyed.   

Banks and Chub

A front was predicted about midday on the day after we reached Bimini so Tom and I elected to spend a day exploring.  Bimini was quiet .  There is more than enough dock space for twenty times the number of boats we saw there.  The new development, Bimini Bay, toward the end of the island,  has increased the marina space even more.  Bimini Bay is a pretty spot, nice houses fancy pools etc.  but very enclosed and doesn't seem to be a part of the town at all.  Another cold front " reinforcing " was predicted but Tom and I hoped that we could manage a bumpy night on the banks and then get into Chub before the front came through and really whipped things up.So we headed out in the morning.    It was a breezy but pleasant close reach across the banks .  Bumpy as the wind kept picking up and coming around to directly on the nose. We were powering along happily with the clear clear water of the Banks below.  We saw dolphins and many fishing boats.  The fishing boats have one large boat about 60 feet or so towing a string (3or4) of 20 foot whaler types.  These guys go lobstering all day then bring the catch back to the large boat for the night.  They stay out about a month.  As the end of the day came ,  the engine started to cough.  there were  fewer than 20 hours on the filters so it seemed odd but the boat was behaving as if they were clogged .   As Tom went below to change filters, One of the smaller fishing boats came over to us.  They said they'd been out about 3 1/2 weeks and would be happy to trade lobsters for beer.  They were so happy when we passed a six pack over.  They gave us 6 lobsters and 2 huge stone crab claws.  If I ever came in contact with the crab that owned these claws I'd be terrified.   We got a big kick out of the fishermen and the lobsters were GREAT.  However the engine problem was on both our minds as we tried to sleep and the wind came up more and more.  It was a bouncy night.  People tell me of calm nights on the banks but I haven't experienced one yet.  But it is so beautiful to be out there.  Stars fill the sky above,  the moon was big and shone through the clouds reflecting on the water below.  Still it was a bumpy night and I was ready to leave at 5.  We pushed off early.  The engine problems of the day before meant we had a bit more of a trip than planned and the front was definitely moving through.  We knew we couldn't stay put so we went along.  Rounding the mark from the shallow banks into the deep ( about a mile deep) waters of the Northwest Providence Channel was intimidating.  We were powering as wind was on the bow but we were  almost tacking in order to stop pounding into the waves.  The seas were huge and building.  Our hopes that they might lay down at  the tide change weren't realized .  Then the engine died .  Not part of the plan.  Changed course, rolled out jib and sailed into some big seas.  Tom worked on engine with   a pretty severe heel going on but the boat took the seas  pretty well  as long as we didn't try to head right into them.  Got things going again and headed toward anchorage.  Engine quit again.  Clearly not clogged filters now .  Tacked again.  It was so sad to turn away from the anchorage but there are a few rocks that we needed to avoid and the boat wouldn't head up enough under sail alone to make the channel. After a few tacks in 35knot winds and 10 foot seas, we sailed into a little shelter by Chub point threw out the hook. Tom worked on the engine.  Not too many resources at the marina there, it is really a resort, but once we got the engine running we headed in.   That night there were gusts to  in 35 knot range so we were glad to be there.  In the midst of this Tom saw a pod of whales.  I only saw a tail disappear below the surface.   In all that turmoil it was still majestic 

Go

Left Cape Florida at dawn, powered in very light winds.  Looked back at the lighthouse and distant buildings just once.  From then we were looking ahead.  After a couple of  hours, we were discussing the fact that there was quite a bit more wind than predicted.  It was E SE and about 15 knots.  We looked at each other and said "Hey we can sail. " We hadn't actually been able to sail on the ICW for a long time.  Since predictions were for 5 -10 we had planned to power in order to get across before dark.  What a joy.  Sails up,  making almost 7knots motor sailing, we killed the engine and had a blissful sail for the last 4 hours of our run to Bimini.  What a  beautiful day; warm, blue skies. great breeze- never more than 15 but not much less either. The blue of the Gulf stream is so intense, it just added to the scenery.  Flying fish were keeping up company.  Not quite as good as dolphins but fun to watch.  Got to Bimini, legendary fishing town and haunt of Hemingway, about 3PM and powered up to enter a quiet, harbor.  This entry  is interesting.  There is a sandbar with waves breaking parallel to the beach.  You cut between this and the beach just quite close to shore after you line up the range marking the harbor entrance.  I didn't even think it looked like an entrance from a ways away.    But at least 7 to 9 feet of water are there as long as you watch yourself.  My impulse is not to go too close to the beach but with that sandbar the beach was on both sides!  Hundreds if not thousands of much bigger boats enter this harbor all the time so no worries.   Once inside the channel is well marked.  We called a couple of marinas on the radio but no answer.  Finally Tom saw a boat docking, yelled to the dock hand "Have room for one more?" and we tied up.  Clearing customs was quick , organized and easy.  We put the yellow Q flag up once we could see land and were happy to switch it for the Bahamian marine flag.   We had time to walk up the hill have a celebratory rum drink and watch sunset.  It doesn't get much better than this.  

Stiltsville

Waiting  has never been one of my best jobs.  Tom is more patient than I and we were both antsy.  Unstowed dinghy and went exploring.  The water here is clear and inviting.  I have often wanted to see the houses in Stiltsville up close.  They are only about 3 miles from Key Biscayne. Years ago we were headed there in the cat boat when we bumped the bottom.  When you hit ground in a cat boat the water is really shallow! It is odd to see them rise up from Biscayne Bay miles from shore and close to the ocean.  Even in  the dinghy we almost ran out of water.  Dolphins were fishing and we watched a leopard ray wing over the bottom.  There were many Man of War jelly fish. A few were tiny but many were close to 7 inches or so. Their sails are pink and do not show well in photos .  They are like the sails on sport fish like marlin .  Only , of course, these are proportional to a jelly fish.  Enjoyed watching these for a while.  They move their bodies as if they were checking out the area.  Can't see any eyes but who knows.  Their tentacles are long and mean looking but tiny fish were moving in and out of them.  Maybe they are not affected by poison, can they be eating the jellyfish's food?  Stiltsville was  impressive up close.  Some houses in great repair and obviously lived in , some abandoned.  I am amazed they stand up to storms, they are completely unprotected.  Returned to boat.  Stowed engine, stowed dinghy and all else.  Set alarms.  Good day but ready to go.   

Waiting in Key Biscayne

Checked weather, checked again; seemed like a go.  So with great excitement we moved from Dinner Key to Key Biscayne. Just a few miles from Miami and Dinner Key, Key Biscayne is lovely and worth a visit all by itself .   We saw the beautiful schooner in the picture there. House isn't too bad either. This was a vacation spot for president Nixon and there is a little anchorage called Nixons with many boats.  Key Biscayne also  just off the Florida Channel which leads to the ocean and the Gulf Stream.  We were so excited.  We put the dinghy up on deck, stowed all stowables and  set alarm for 6am.  We wanted to be able to see and dawn is not until almost 7 down here. Hard to believe we would sleep till then without an alarm but we would. Went to bed with winds from the NE and had high hopes for SE maybe even SW by the time we awakened.  Said goodbye to Miami and environs. Turned out we said goodbye a little too soon.  Awakened to reports of NE wind forcast to become ESE the following day.  Patience.  Many decided to go but we elected to wait.  Our last rides over the stream have been pretty wild and we were ready for a good crossing.   

Waiting.....

We are sitting in Miami at Dinner Key waiting for good weather to cross the Gulf Stream. We are not alone. It is very difficult to just keep waiting. However, the wind is from the North and since the Gulf Stream flows from the South toward the North this sets up opposing wind and current. Waves can get big in this situation, about 5-8 feet or even bigger. We heard 18 while we were in Beaufort. Some people tackle it but we won't. It looks like a week or so but we are ready. Fuel is full, water is full, filters are new and we have a lot of groceries and beer and wine. Now if we can just keep from using everything up while we wait. Hope all had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Speaking of Bridges

There are 28 drawbridges between Palm Beach and Miami. There are many more along the way but 28 in about 60 miles is quite a challenge. Some bridges open on the hour and half hour. Some open at quarter of and quarter past. A couple are every 20 minutes. It is really a toss up as to whether or not you can manage the schedule. Many of the bridges are only 2 miles apart but if the current is against you making 2 miles in 15 minutes is impossible. We try to look at this as an exercise in patience however some days we can only make about 25 miles due to bridge schedules. Then, on our lucky day we picked up the Tug and Barge Cody C. We followed them from near Fort Pierce all the way to Hollywood Beach. This included 20 drawbridges. When they pushed in from the inlet just in front of us we were a bit bummed. They cruised at our speed sometimes but sometimes a little slower. Tom was trying to figure out if he could pass them but they weren't going slowly enough and they need a lot of room. Also this was Thanksgiving weekend so there was every kind of boat traffic. Think of Fourth of July on Cape Cod and double it! Really. So we followed them through the first bridge. Coast Guard regulations require bridges to open for commercial tugs and barges ; I think because they have such limited maneuverability they couldn't stop to wait. Every time a bridge came into sight Cody C would radio them saying " Commercial tug and barge requesting passage." Bridge tenders opened for them on schedule or not. Tom was right behind them literally and on the radio requesting passage through with the tug and barge. It was amazing. Just like doors opening in front of you. We had planned 2 days for this run or even 3 but we just went along like VIP's. The tug and barge had quite the hard time with all the wakes. There were so many boats and so little space that the wakes created a nasty chop of about 2 feet or more. Cody C said that the cables that held tug and barge together were straining when the wakes were largest. Wouldn't want to be too close to them if they separated. Finally, we needed fuel so we left Cody C . We really were so sad to see them go. The next three bridges took 2 hours . It was a 6 mile trip. We made the anchorage as dusk was falling. One amazing day!