Topsail Island to Cape Fear

Day broke with ice on the docks and a gentle breeze. The cruising here is all about staying in the channel and away from the shoals, otherwise mostly a long straight path past barrier islands in between the big barrier beach and the mainland. When we passed here 6 years ago there were many windswept piney stretches of sand. You really could picture pirates at the inlets. Now houses and houses and highrises and houses. It seems to me to have changed on a really big scale. Still as you go on there are small, pretty marshes and many seabirds . As you pass the inlets the water is a beautiful color blue , diluted as you stay more in the intracostal. At Carolina beach - which looked spectacular from the glimpse we had of it - we turned and followed a narrow cut into the Cape Fear River. Here , since we were entering the river, the buoys reverse and green goes to the right. Gave us something to think about, I am glad to say we had figured that one out before we got there. The tide picked us up and we traveled the river at about eight knots ! I would love to say we planned that but sometimes it is just good to be lucky. Left the Cape Fear River dodging commercial traffic and ferries, and turned into the small basin at Southport. The anchorage is really small and it was crowded so we pulled into the dock at a small restaurant. Free with a meal is the rumor. Restaurant closed but dockspace available so we stayed. this space is just a little close to the ICW. As each boat goes by the wakes rock and roll and rock and roll. Tom pulled off a 4 am lines drill after we were awakened by several bizarre noises along with the wave action. Only needed to reset fenders,I offered strong support from the warmth of the covers in our bunk. He was a popsicle as he came back to bed.

to Harbor Village Marina

Dawn came with 20kt winds, with higher predictions as a cold front was to pass that night. We felt a safe haven might be better than staying at anchor in the swamp, so at 0800, we left. Again, we clawed our way upwind under power, struggling against the gusts of wind that aimed to blow us out of the channel. We felt pretty alone, as most of the Mile Hammock anchorees stayed put, and the waterway seemed deserted, except for the passing dolphins. A few times we experienced light showers, which moderated the gusts, but mostly it seemed like an uphill battle. Finally, we were fully dressed in foul weather gear, the clouds were darkening, and the wind was increasing. We stopped at a newer marina just before approaching Figure Eight Island Swing Bridge. This bridge will not open if the wind is over 30 MPH, and we were experiencing 25kts, so we did not know how much further we could go anyway. Ducking in shortly afternoon, it seemed like the coward's way out, but by 2PM the front passed through. The heavens opened, the wind howled, and the temperatures dropped. Even in the slip, we were tossed about.

ditch running:Beaufort to Mile Hammock

This portion of the intracoastal waterway is fairly rural, and on a windy day can be challenging. So, up for a challenge, we shoved off from Beaufort a little early to make the run into the wilds of US Marine training Camp LeJune. Basically the course is a straight line, and one navigates by depth sounder, not chart plotter. At each opening to the ocean, the boat is blown inshore, and one must compensate at the helm. All was going along fine, until TowboatUS passed us, enroute to a rescue. Way up ahead we watched as a big wooden ketch, INDIA, was towed off a shoal, and she was free by the time we got close enough to see the area. Believing the markers and charts, we started over this path, and promptly ran BRILLIANT hard aground. "Well", said Susan,"Henry Plummer always said 'go off as you came on'...so we hit reverse and promptly backed off into deeper water. Then, with the help of a little local knowledge (the towboat operator) we finally found the deep water and proceeded into Marine Country. Now, this day at Camp Swampy was helicopter training day. There were the big "egg beater"troop transports, attack types, Vietnam era types, the new movable wing combination types, all out for a windy afternoon ride over the boats anchored in their training pond. Anchor down by sunset, holding well into the night, as we turned in for a needed rest.

Leaving Beaufort

Beaufort has so many things to recommend to it. It would be a great place to spend weeks. Lots of places to kayak hike etc. Waterfront dominated by docks on one side and wild islands and barrier beaches near the inlet. Commercial at Moorhead city just across the way. We are pushing south after a great stop. Will probably not have access for a while . Tonight we should be at a small bay near Camp Le Jeune. If the Marines are firing across the ICW we will have to wait an hour or so. I will not mind. Better than dodging bullets!!!!! The way now is inside barrier beaches, I think is is beautiful. Story goes that many pirate ships waited until they could see topsails here and then used the inlets to go capture their prey ! There have been Dolphins playing around the boat. We must be getting south!

On the way to Beaufort

After Norfolk and the bridges the way becomes more varied. Swamps like this but many open bays too.

We took the Virginia cut. After Norfolk the commercial presence continues for miles. The the water way becomes varied and wild. dismal swamp route was closed due to low water levels. We had planned on Virginia cut anyway. The one lock scarcely seemed necessary as we lowered only a foot. We motor sailed many times but not too much sailing too narrow in some places and too twisty in others.

Getting to Beaufort NC Virginia

As I write this from Beaufort, I am thinking how many great places there are to explore, but we still want to keep heading south. Virginia has big big rivers with great ports and coves . Lots of surprisingly big vessels and freighter traffic. But we just sailed across . The cold weather and very short days are powerful motivators. We had only 3 stops in Va, Reedville off the Great Wicomico River, Deltaville off the Rappahannock and Norfolk ,a huge port. Reedville is a fishing port with a processing plant. In theory, proceeding up the river brings you to a quiet town. As we entered the river is was almost dark. The entry is loaded with these pens, called fish traps or havens and crab pots. Almost as many as there are lobster pots in Maine. Although the setting sun made it difficult to see obstacles it looked almost as though it was creating a path for us. We dropped a hook just inside the creek almost opposite the fishing dock. Poor judgement. Really big fishing boats apparently need to leave at staggered times. They go out all night and return all early am. So we are snugged under the covers since again it's cold and first we hear big diesels then feel the roll of the wake. It should have been restful but I didn't feel the lullaby. I was being ricked awake. Anchor held though and we got an early start on the day. note to self proceed up the river. Next Day lived up to its small craft advisory conditions. Really strong winds and 3-4 foot seas. Ran down to Deltaville until the wind came around on our nose. We entered from the Bay although the marinas etc. are mostly off the river. Delta ville has entrances on n both Chesapeake and the Rappahanock. TLong entry almost 6 miles but sheltered and nice anchorage, fuel and a walk etc. Very rural once you are away from marinas. Next day long push to Norfolk. Tom found a channel away from shipping lanes. I didn't see it on GPS and thought he would run us aground any minute. Nevertheless he got us over all kinds of charted shoals - boldly going where boats have run aground before, in a cold strong wind. Ran into Norfolk and down the Elizabeth River with freighters tugs and barges. They are really big. Norfolk is so busy. In addition to all the commercial traffic there is a huge navy presence. We watched a helicopter and a couple of boats maneuver tows. the helicopter was towing! Strange to see the tow line coming from the sky to the water! Norfolk begins the Intracostal proper. We have been over 700 miles to get to the beginning!

Getting